Tasting Notes:
Funky with Pomegranate, Persimmon & Cranberry Cocktail.
Region:
Pangalengan, Bandung.
Farm:
Riunggunung Estate.
Varietal:
Andungasari, Bor Bor, Katrika & Ateng.
Elevation:
1600-1650m.
Process:
Anaerobic.
Importer:
Sally at Cafe Imports
Notes from Lee at Quietly
Sugar Mountain is our dedicated home to coffees that use experimental and innovative processing methods. Rather than simply being washed or natural, producers and washing stations are using new techniques. For example, low oxygen or anerobic, in which fresh cherries ferment in sealed barrels. By using a one-way valve, oxygen exits and cultivates an environment rich in yeast and sugar interactions. The resulting cups are often wildly tropical and will emphasis fruit-forward and deep funky notes. Sugar Mountain sometimes too features co-ferments, in which cherries are selectively mixed with other fruit or flavour elements, changing the sensory profile. Or it could be carbonic maceration! Or even lactic washed processing? These are the types of preparations that have you asking: what is this drink? And as Neil Young says in Sugar Mountain, "ain't it funny how you feel, when you're finding' out it's real?"
Riunggunung Estate was founded by Wildan Mustofa, his wife Atieq Mustikaningtyas Wildan and their son Fikri in Bandung, south of Jakarta, on the island of Java. This 'estate' is a 10-hectare farm with 9 hectares planted in a selection of different varieties. Wildan oversees the agricultural and processing, while Atieq handles contracts, and Fikri does the cupping and scoring. This is a returning lot from the highest rises on the estate. The cold nights are precarious for the plants, presenting the danger of frost, but it also translates to an incredible nuanced profile with great delicacy and complexity in the cup.
West Java is always our sleeper hit, which makes sense given its incredibly fun profile. The combination of low oxygen processing with the unique regional Andungasari, Bor Bor, Katrika and Ateng varieties, the cup is equally vibrant and earthy. It mixes heavy caramels with bright fruity spice, think molasses meets persimmon. Juicy and bright, it really reminds me of those not actually juice “beverages” or "drinks". Like last year, there is loads fruit punch types notes but this harvest really brings the cranberry and pomegranate flavours. Big, juicy and delightful!
